Beyond beer: Why Plzeňský kraj is one of Czechia’s best food escapes

Most people drive through the Pilsen Region for a beer or two and keep going. They're missing out. 

Just a few hours from Prague, this overlooked corner of west Bohemia pairs Gothic castles, dense Šumava forests, modernist architecture, and rivers made for summer canoeing with one of the country’s most distinctive culinary scenes. Beer remains part of the picture, but it’s no longer the main attraction. 

“The reason Plzeňský kraj belongs on foodie radars isn't the pint,” says Jiří Panuška, Executive CMO at Červený Jelen. “It's that you can eat border cuisine, forest cuisine, and producer-driven Czech cuisine within an hour's drive of each other. Very few regions in Europe offer that.”

A native of Pilsen, Panuška co-owns four gastro concepts in the city and spends much of his time exploring the countryside’s kitchens, breweries, and backroads.

“From Šumava and Český les comes the wild side,” Panuška explains. “Venison, boar, trout, mushrooms, forest berries, herbs. Most of Europe has forgotten how to cook this way. This region never stopped.”

We asked Panuška to guide our forks and knives to the places that deserve a detour.

While Panuška’s four gastro concepts – Plzeňka Plzeň, Kozlovna Plzeň, Hospodská Lékárna, and Ca'Vino – have helped transform Pilsen’s underdeveloped restaurant mix, they aren’t the only spots with a deeply loyal following. 

Štipec, a small chef-driven restaurant built around a beechwood-fired oven and fresh sourdough baked daily, is one of Panuška’s personal favorites.  

“It’s the one place in the city I’d send someone who wants to understand that Pilsen is capable of modern cooking,” he says.

In nearby Sušice, Panuška recommends getting your caffeine fix at Kafe Žebřík or Pod nebem coffee, whose specialty brews rival Prague cafés.  

Further into Šumava, newer concepts are helping redefine the regional dining scene. Berry, which opened last year in Královský Hvozd, pairs mountain views with refined takes on Czech classics like duck breast, while Kašperský pivovar offers house-brewed beer, hearty Czech staples, and one of the best terraces in the region. 

For something a bit off the beaten path, try U Štěpána. This cozy spot, made famous years ago by Zdeněk Pohlreich's “Ano, šéfe,” offers the kind of quiet, confident cooking you find in the better corners of rural Austria or Bavaria.

Panuška says one of Pilsen’s most underrated attractions is its collection of interiors by modernist architect Adolf Loos. Guided tours of Adolf Loos Interiors highlight some of the best-preserved modernist spaces in Central Europe. 

Outside the city, Panuška recommends spending a full day in Kašperské Hory, hiking up to Kašperk Castle before settling in for dinner at Nebespán on the town square. 

“This is where Šumava gastronomy actually lives right now, and one small square holds most of it,” Panuška says. “You could structure an entire weekend around this town alone.”

For a slower pace, canoeing along the Otava River offers an easy way to experience the Šumava foothills. Panuška’s advice is simple: “Book a canoe, pack lunch, don’t rush.”

Take a day to explore Chodsko, the historic border area nestled in the Bohemian Forest around Domažlice. The town, with its preserved old square, living bagpipe tradition, and bakeries selling proper full-size chodské koláče, is unlike anywhere else in the country. Chodské slavnosti takes place in mid-August and is one of the few Czech folk festivals that's genuinely still for locals rather than tourists.

In Pilsen, Hotel U Zvonu stands out for its modern design and central location. In Šumava, Panuška calls Hotel Nebespán “the pick of the region,” thanks to its ambitious kitchen and boutique feel. Travelers looking to fully disconnect should head deeper into the national park to Hájenka Knížecí Pláně, a former forester’s lodge surrounded by hiking trails, forests, and solitude.

For travelers who think they already know Pilsen, Plzeňský kraj offers a richer reason to return: regional cooking shaped by forests, borders, rivers, and local producers. As the summer approaches, consider a longer adventure through its towns and natural landscape, one bite at a time.