Vegetarian Options in Prague

Soon after re-locating to Prague from the UK, it became apparent that the concept of vegetarianism is relatively new to the Czech Republic. I learnt the phrase jsem vegetariánka (I’m vegetarian) fairly quickly and soon got used to the raised eyebrow and slightly panicked look that it triggered on my host or hostess’s face. Things have definitely improved since then, with almost all restaurants in the capital offering at least a couple of meat-free (bez masa) options alongside their standard dishes, and with many shops and restaurants actively specializing in vegetarian and vegan trade. This is a brief guide to some of the best and some of my recent experiences as a vegetarian here.

Their relatively newly opened sister restaurant Maitrea is centrally located on Týnská (just behind Old Town Square). They also offer a daily lunch menu for 108 CZK, which includes a glass of water. Their main menu is elaborate and wide-ranging, with dishes inspired by many different cultures from around the world. Their most expensive main course item is just 160 CZK, so it’s good value for money. It’s definitely worth a visit, if only to check out the interior design which comes complete with indoor waterfall! Both Maitrea and Lehká hlava are popular, particularly on the weekend, so reservations are recommended.

Another long-time favourite with Prague veggies is Radost FX Bělehradská 120, Prague 2, the restaurant and café above the famous night club. It’s a little more expensive than other options (main dishes range from around 165 CZK to over 200 CZK) but the portions are HUGE and quite delicious. On my last visit I chose the ‘Up in Smoke’ toasted sandwich for 165 CZK (smoked tofu, Swiss cheese, and red onion in a bun with a side dish of their famous Crack Slaw – which is much tastier than it sounds!) and my friend plumped for the ‘White Trash Hot Artichoke Dip’ for 155 CZK (cheese, garlic, spinach, and tangy artichoke served with homemade pita chips). Both dishes were very well received.

For delicious vegetarian Indian food at low prices, try Beas Vegetarian Dhaba and Góvinda. Beas has four different locations around the city and offers huge portions for around 100 CZK, the Bělehradská location charges per menu whereas the other branches use a weighing system so you pay depending on your level of hunger (which can be an issue if you have the ‘eyes bigger than stomach’ affliction like me!) You can also pick up a cheap all-you-can-eat lunch buffet for 108 CZK (drinks not included) on weekdays at The Pind. They serve meat dishes too, but always have one or two great veggie options and have incredibly welcoming and friendly staff.

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I went for Sunday brunch and had a delicious onion soup to start, followed by a mixed tasting platter for the main course which included a slice of Spanish style tortilla, sliced cheese, pickled beetroot with yoghurt and garlic sauce, green salad and a mini roll with cheese and smoked salmon (optional for non-fish eaters). It was topped off with a delicious home-made apple cake for dessert, all for the slightly pricey, yet justifiable sum of 280 CZK. Love Kido isn’t entirely vegetarian, but around 80% of the selection on that day was meat-free. One small negative – we were told that drinks (home-made iced tea) were included, but when I checked my bill later I noticed we’d been charged 35 CZK for a top-up I accepted from the waiter, which seemed a bit unnecessary given the already high price of the menu, so watch out for that. Otherwise, I’d highly recommend the visit out to Bubeneč for brunch.

One of the largest companies is Country Life, which has four food stores in total, as well as a fifth shop specialising in cosmetics. They also have an online shop via their website. They stock a wide range of dried food and pulses, miso, and vegetarian stocks. They also have a refrigerated section with various types of tofu, tempeh, veggie sausages, and burgers. There are full vegetarian restaurants at the Dejvice and Melantrichova branches and a smaller self-service lunch menu food counter at the Jungmannova location with a seating area upstairs (or takeaway containers if you’re in a hurry). During my visit to this branch there was soup, vegetarian goulash, and mixed roast vegetables on offer. It all look a bit ‘tired’ at the time I was there (about 15:00) but they serve from 11:00 so I suggest going early to catch it at its best. The menu for the week is posted on their website.

Another great chain of shops for veggies (and vegans) is Bioobchod. Their Prague branches are in Prague 4 near the Háje metro station and Prague 2 on Bělehradská. They also have stores outside the capital in Hradec Králové, Trutnov, and Jaroměř. I visited the Bělehradská shop (open Monday – Friday 8:00 – 20:00 and Saturday 9:00 – 13:00) and was impressed with the range of supplies available. They have the usual grains, pulses, and dried goods, including dehydrated soya, and a large refrigerated section with fresh fruits and vegetables (mainly organic as far as I could tell), vegetarian and vegan cheeses, and dairy replacement products, tofu, tempeh, seitan, veggie salami, and much more. A great source of locally grown and organic vegetables and free-range eggs and other cruelty-free dairy products are the many farmers’ markets which are cropping up all over the city at the moment. The newly opened Tylák market at I.P. Pavlova (open Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday 11:00 – 16:00 and Saturday 9:00 – 14:00) is a great resource and well worth a visit. Remember to take a bag or a basket because you’re bound to be tempted!