Winter is coming! Where to fatten up on St. Martin's goose in Prague this month

Across Europe, the feast of St. Martin, known elsewhere as Martinmas, means a hearty winter pairing of roasted goose and, in the Czech Republic, St. Martin’s wine (Svatomartinské víno).

Why goose and wine? Legend has it St. Martin once hid out in a goose pen to avoid being ordained bishop and was betrayed by the cackling of geese. While he is said to have spread wine-making throughout France, it was during the 18th-century reign of Emperor Joseph II, that vineyard owners in the Czech lands began visiting winemakers on St. Martin’s Day to sample the new wine.

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St. Martin’s wine is light and dry, with low alcohol content and fruity character. Four grapes are used in its production – Müller Thurgau and Veltlínské červené rané for white wine, and Modrý Portugal and Svatovavřinecké for red or rosé wine. The St. Martin’s tradition is similar to that of the French Beaujolais Nouveau, but the Czech ritual is much older.

The medieval custom also falls in November because that’s when geese are fattened across the continent. And there’s a legend: during November, “St. Martin comes on his white horse,” the white horse symbolizing the end of autumn and the wintry weather to come.

St. Martin’s Celebration at Jiřák
November 9
The JZP farmer’s market on the square promises a selection of goose dishes for pairing with young wine plus activities for kids and musical accompaniment. Read more

St. Martin’s Festivities at Kasárna Karlín
November 11-16
Teaming up with The Real Meat Society this Prague 8 hang-out promises “a heated big top full of quality food, wine from an ecological family winery and an accompanying program for children.” Live music and free entry. Read more.