Prague Districts: Smíchov - part I. - Prague, Czech Republic

Our series on Prague districts returns to another inner-city neighborhood that’s enjoyed a dramatic transformation over the last two decades: Smíchov. Like Karlín and Holešovice, Smíchov hasn’t enjoyed the best of reputations among Praguers as a place to live, but its housing stock has improved significantly over the years; old heavy industries have been replaced by service industries in shiny office blocks, and shopping and leisure are now as much associated with Smíchov as tram factories and brewing.

Location
Situated in the northeastern corner of Prague 5, Smíchov is very easy to find, immediately south of the Lesser Quarter. Smíchov extends westwards along Plzeňská, one of Prague’s key arterial routes, and down Nádražní and Strakonická, roughly as far as Zlíchov. The heart of Smíchov is Anděl, one of Prague‘s key transport interchanges and now a major commercial and entertainment center. Anděl is only minutes away from the city center, and is also connected to other side of the River Vltava by Palacký Bridge (Palackého most).

Soon after, the sprawling Nový Smíchov mall was built, incorporating one of the walls of the Ringhoffer tram plant. The only other reminder of the factory is the owner’s villa close by, an Art Nouveau monument marooned among flyovers and hip new hotels. The redevelopment of Smíchov has also included significant transportation projects such as the Strahov tunnel in the mid-90s, and the redevelopment of the Lihovar site on the southern edge of the neighborhood, which will change the area further.

Environment
Smíchov used to be one of the dirtiest districts in Prague, compounded by its location under steep hills. Factory chimneys used to belch out smoke and noxious substances, but today Smíchov is much cleaner and greener. However, noise and fumes from traffic are a modern pollution issue, particularly along the main thoroughfares of Plzeňská, Nádražní and Strakonická. Other issues are the same as elsewhere, such as dog fouling, a perennial nuisance in Prague, and uncleared snow in winter.

Green space
Smíchov is perceived as being a densely built up area, although it does have access to a surprisingly large areas of open space, one of the most extensive of which is Kinského zahrada, the southern flank of Petřín Hill. The attractions of Petřín Hill itself are well-known, although strictly speaking it’s in the Lesser Quarter. Further south is the vast, exposed open space at Děvín, just above Prokopské údolí, a Prague beauty spot. On a more modest scale, Smíchov has a series of small squares that form mini parks, such as Arbesovo náměstí and Náměstí 14. Října. Less well-known, although easily accessible from the back of the Nový Smíchov mall, is the Sacre Coeur Park.

In the heart of Smíchov, in the 19th and early 20th-century blocks around Anděl, the housing stock consists exclusively of tenements, many of which have been restored in recent years. Properties around Janáčkovo nábřeží, along the riverbank, are of a very high standard, comparable to the apartments in the older part of Vinohrady. Understandably, they command high prices, which reflect their location as well building quality. Apartments in the area closer to Anděl are not quite as prestigious, but are still sought-after thanks to their location in what is now one of Prague’s most vibrant quarters.