Massages, marijuana, and mayhem on the Royal Route: How Prague is responding

Prague’s famed Royal Route, once trodden by kings en route to coronations at Prague Castle, now faces a different kind of royal parade: an onslaught of kitschy shops, gaudy mannequins, and blinding neon signs.

Stretching from the Powder Gate at Náměstí republiky, across Charles Bridge, through Old Town Square and on to Malostranské náměstí, the Royal Route is the Czech capital’s most famous tourist corridor. But while the route’s Baroque beauty remains intact, its charm is under siege.

“The current situation, where architectural gems are spoiled by tasteless shop windows, kitschy mannequins and aggressive light displays, is unsustainable,” Giancarlo Lamberti, a Prague 1 representative, told Czech media outlet Novinky.cz. “It often forms tourists’ first impression of the entire Czech Republic,” he added.

The visual smog, a mix of novelty stores, cheap souvenirs, and unregulated signage, mars views of Prague’s historic center, attracting daily complaints from both locals and visitors. Yet despite widespread frustration, officials say their hands are tied.

“The municipality can only influence the range of goods and services in buildings owned by the capital city of Prague,” municipal spokesman Vít Hofman told Novinky.cz. “However, we have no influence on goods or services offered in private buildings. That is certainly not possible, we must respect the laws,” he commented.

The National Heritage Institute echoed this lack of authority. When contacted by Novinky.cz, a spokeswoman referred the publication to Prague City Hall.

Still, there are small victories. Prague 1 has implemented a “Manual for a Cultivated Prague,” requiring businesses in city-owned properties to follow design guidelines and avoid certain types of establishments. Among the prohibited: non-stop bars, sex shops, fireworks vendors, military surplus dealers, and souvenir stands with no link to Czech heritage.

“For several years, the municipality has included in lease agreements for non-residential premises the obligation of tenants to mark their premises in accordance with the document,” said Prague 1 spokeswoman Karolína Šnejdarová.

Unfortunately, the worst offenders, many of them in privately owned buildings, remain out of reach.

As kings once ascended the Royal Route in majestic processions, today’s visitors march past plastic knights and blinking LED signs. For now, the battle between Baroque beauty and tourist tack continues.