Prague Districts

Written by Jason Pirodsky
for Expats.cz

The following is by no means comprehensive, but a brief guide to some of the major districts in Prague.  If you want to skip ahead, some of the most popular residential areas for expats are Vinohrady (Prague 2), Dejvice (Prague 6), and Vrsovice (Prague 10).  Some areas of Prague 4 are also very nice, but comprised mostly of Czechs. 

Prague 1

Prague 1 is the heart of the city, with grand architecture, cobblestone streets – and masses upon masses of tourists.  It can be one of the most convenient places to live, with an abundance of restaurants, bars, businesses and public transportation that can take you anywhere in Prague in 20-30 minutes, but the crowds can make it a somewhat unpleasant place to reside.  It’s also, in general, one of the most expensive areas to live in, not just in terms of real estate, but also restaurants/shops/etc. that skew their business towards tourists.  There is also a near-total lack of any parks or green areas.  Prague 1 is comprised of three major districts: Mala Strana (Little Quarter) and Stare Mesto (Old Town) are the historical centres of Prague, and Nove Mesto (New Town, which also spills into Prague 2) is one of the more commercial centres.  Those who prefer city life and don’t mind the crowds are likely to be satisfied by any of the districts – a place off the beaten path in Mala Strana or Josefov (between Old Town and the Vltava river) would be ideal, but likely prohibitively expensive.  For many, especially families, the costs and crowds make Prague 1 a much less attractive option.

Prague 2

Vinohrady, in Prague 2, is one of the most popular residential districts for expats.  It’s similar to Prague 1 – an abundance of restaurants, bars, shops and public transportation – only without the masses of tourists.  There are three major metro stations within walking distance of each other: Namesti Miru, I.P. Pavlova, and Jiriho z Podebrad (which borders Prague 3).  For those without a car, this makes Vinohrady one of the most convenient places to live in outside of the centre.  The area is safe, with many large parks around, making it a good choice for families.  The residences are mostly limited to apartments, so those seeking houses will have to look elsewhere.  Most of the flats are older but newly renovated, and the rents will reflect this; after Prague 1, Vinohrady is one of the more expensive places to live.  Many restaurants and businesses here will cater to a more international crowd, making them somewhat more expensive as well.

Prague 3

Prague 3 contains parts of Vinohrady, but is mostly made up by Zizkov, Vinohrady’s little neighbor.  Zizkov has a reputation – deserved or not – as being one of the ‘rougher’ parts of Prague.  For the most part, it’s similar to Vinohrady but quite a bit cheaper – many of the buildings have not been recently renovated (though some apartments have, and can be quite nice).  It’s also much more of a Czech neighborhood, with some expats, but not nearly as many as Vinohrady.  Plenty of restaurants, bars, shops, etc., and many typical Czech pubs.  Public transportation can be a problem, as there isn’t any metro station in the centre, though there are plenty of trams and buses.  There’s also a lot of traffic on the main streets, and not many (but some) green areas.  A matter of taste, but really not the most ideal place for families.

Prague 4

Prague 4 is one of the largest residential areas in Prague, comprised mostly by Czechs.  The international crowd is smaller here compared to other areas, and there are almost no tourists or businesses catering to them.  Branik and Podoli are (generally) quiet, safe areas by the Vltava with rich atmosphere: outdoor pubs, traditional Czech restaurants, small parks, sports venues, and streets lined with trees.  Residences are comprised of houses and apartments, and the area is good for families (and others) who wish to be immersed in the Czech lifestyle – Branik and Podoli are some of the nicest typically ‘Czech’ neighborhoods in Prague.  Having a car is recommended, as the closest metro (Prazskeho povstani) can be far from some parts, but there are tram and bus connections.  The area is inexpensive, as it is quite far from the city centre, but not necessarily cheap.

Pankrac and Budejovicka are similar to Branik and Podoli, but not quite as nice: many of the apartments are panelaks (Communist-era panel buildings), which aren’t ideal to live in (or even look at, for that matter.)  Panelaks are likely the cheapest apartments in Prague, but hopefully they won’t be an option for most expats.  Public transportation is more convenient here, as both areas have their own metro station.  There are many shops and services, and a few Czech restaurants.  Pankrac and Budejovicka can be more business-oriented, with many offices and a large hospital centre, but there are some nice, inexpensive areas to be found.

Prague 5

Smichov, south of Mala Strana, has recently become one of the larger commercial areas in Prague (especially around the metro station Andel).  Some nice apartments can be found, prices generally increasing from mid-range-to-high the closer you get to Mala Strana, and some areas can be just as crowded during the day as Prague 1.  Public transportation is very good in the area, and there are a few small parks, but it’s likely not the most ideal neighborhood for families.

Jinonice and Butovice have good public transportation as well, and feature some newer apartments, but also many panelaks and office centres.  It’s a mostly residential, Czech neighborhood, with a few supermarkets but not very many restaurants, bars, etc.    Kosire, Motol, Hlubocepy, and Radlice have some nicer areas – some small panelaks but mostly older family houses, and many green areas and parks.  Some of the better options in Prague 5 for families can be found in these districts, but the public transportation isn’t as great, some parts can be quite far from the centre, and certain streets can have a lot of traffic.  There are almost no tourists, but also very few restaurants and shops.

Prague 6

Dejvice is another very popular area for expats to reside, and is similar to Vinohrady – many restaurants and shops, good public transportation (though just one metro, in the centre), as well as schools, ministries, sports venues, and a mix of renovated apartments and a few houses.  The area is very safe, and some parts can be cheaper and have a more ‘Czech’ atmosphere than Vinohrady.  A very good option for families. 

Orechovka and Hanspaulka are some of the nicest residential areas in Prague – luxurious houses and villas as well as a many parks and green areas.  Very quiet, and also very expensive – likely the most expensive area in Prague.  A car is almost a necessity, with no metro and few buses/trams, and there are very few restaurants and shops as well.  Still, the neighborhoods may be the best option for families that can afford them.

Prague 7

Letna is close to the city centre, but much cheaper.  Some very nice places can be found by the large park Stromovka, but other areas, around the streets, may not be so pleasant.  It can still be a very convenient place to live.  Holesovice is similar, but without the park.  It’s relatively cheap, and contains a metro station, train station, and some sporting venues.  Mostly Czech residences; not an ideal option, especially for families.

Prague 8 & 9

Karlin, Prague 8, was one of the areas hit hardest by the flood in 2002, and many parts are still being reconstructed.  Some areas are beginning to look nice, but flood damage is still prevalent; otherwise, the area is similar to Zizkov, which it borders, and more artistically oriented.

Prosek, Ladvi, and Letnany, in Prague 9, are quite far from the centre, and currently being developed – a metro line extending into Prague 9 is planned to open in late 2007.  Most areas in Prague 8 & 9 aren’t the best options right now, but that could change in a few years.

Prague 10

Vrsovice is another very popular residential neighborhood for expats.  It southeast of Vinohrady, and very similar, but less expensive.  There are fewer restaurants and bars, but some very good ones, and many green areas.  The only negative is that it’s further from the centre and somewhat lacking in public transportation.  But for families, and especially those with a car, it may be a better option than Vinohrady.   Nusle and Michle are more industrial, cheaper than Vrsovice, but not as nice.  They’re fairly empty, lacking a wealth of things to do. 

Additional information – you can easily pull up the official web pages of each city district like so: www.praha1.cz, www.praha2.cz, etc.  Go ahead and try it, all the way up to Prague 22.  You can find a lot more information than I’ve provided here, but unfortunately, many of the pages are only in Czech.